Submitted: 17 Sep 2019
Revision: 16 Nov 2019
Accepted: 29 Nov 2019
ePublished: 20 Dec 2019
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Int J Phytocos Nat Ingred. 2019;6(1): 8.
doi: 10.15171/ijpni.2019.08
  Abstract View: 2090
  PDF Download: 1525

Original Research

Development, physicochemical and functional analysis of anti-frizz leave-on emulsion with coconut oil

Flavia Scigliano Dabbur 1,2*, Gisele Hédla da Silva Lima 1, Rosana Maia Costa 1 ORCID logo, Clíndia Lourenço Costa 1 ORCID logo, Laís Estephane Silva Santos 1 ORCID logo, Valesca Barreto Luz 3 ORCID logo, Camila Calado de Vasconcelos 1,3 ORCID logo, Josefa Renalva de Macêdo Costa 1 ORCID logo

1 Curso de Farmácia, Centro Universitário Cesmac, Rua Cônego Machado, 984, 57051-160, Farol, Maceió – AL, Brazil
2 Faculdade de Farmácia, Laboratório de Cosméticos, Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, Rua General Gustavo Cordeiro de Faria, s/n, 59012-570, Petrópolis, Natal – RN, Brazil
3 Mestrado Profissional em Biotecnologia em Saúde Humana e Animal. Centro Universitário Cesmac, Rua Angelo Neto, 51, 57151-530, Farol, Maceió – AL, Brazil


Introduction: The cosmetics industry increasingly offers a greater variety of products to consumers, as people have a constant need to change their appearance. For the past years, women have followed a tendency to have their hair back to its natural color, since it was altered by chemical straightening for a long time. The purpose of this paper was to produce and assess the physicochemical stability of a leave-on emulsion formulation containing coconut oil for anti-frizz action.

Methods: It was developed a cationic emulsion formulation, with coconut oil as the active agent in 0.5% and 1.0% concentrations. It was performed functional tests in damaged hair strands. A preliminary stability test was conducted, and the samples were packaged in polyethylene containers, and subjected to different conditions (temperatures of 5°C, 25 °C and 45°C and direct exposure to sunlight). They were analyzed on day 0 and on day 15. The physicochemical analyses were: organoleptic characteristics (color, odor and appearance), pH, spreadability, apparent density and centrifugation. The functional tests (combability test and test on strands of hair) were conducted in strands of damaged hair. For the combability test, which measures the easiness of combing, the strands were previously washed with neutral shampoo. The samples, after being applied, were manipulated for 1 minute in the strands. After the application, a fine-tooth comb was slid through the hair length for at least 5 times. Then we measured the slid length. For the test on strands, they were placed in room temperature (23ºC) and relative humidity (33%) for 24 hours. After such period, we considered half the length of strands for width. After spreading, we examined the anti-frizz action. The results were photographed. The statistical test t was applied: sample data, with the BioEstat 5.3 program.

Results: We found that the color and odor were slightly altered only in samples exposed to sunlight. As for appearance and centrifugation, the samples remained homogeneous under all conditions. The pH of the samples ranged 4.0 – 4.6. In the spreadability test, we found variations of 7.93 –14.72. In the combability test, there was no significant difference in slid between the formulation with coconut oil 0.5% and the formulation with coconut oil 1.0%. Nevertheless, there was difference when they were compared to the sample without the active agent.

Conclusion: In the test on strands of hair, the sample with 1.0% of the active agent (coconut oil) had the best volume result.

Keywords: Hair, Quality control, Cosmetics, Coconut oil, Leave on emulsion
Please cite this paper as: Dabbur FS, Lima GHS, Costa RM, et al. Development, physicochemical and functional analysis of anti-frizz leave-on emulsion with coconut oil. Int J Phytocos Nat Ingred. 2019;6:8. doi:10.15171/ijpni.2019.08.
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